64-65 Brown Silk Drawn and Shirred Bonnet

This bonnet appears to date from late 1864-65 when the bavolet shrank to a very narrow band. The flowers and veil appear to be original to the bonnet but the veil is now pinned on near the bavolet instead of being drawn up and attached in the proper manner.

Here you see the various design elements; the tiny shirred tucks at the back done in very tiny hand stitches, the areas drawn on cane and the band of self-fabric trim, ruched and applied separately. Also visible is the black bobbin lace that edged the bavolet and the empty channel at the top of the veil.

The self-fabric trim is more visible. The steel pins are not original to the bonnet.

A cord or very narrow ribbon was used to draw up the veil before attaching it, most likely at the back edge of the brim exterior.

The veil is made of silk organza net with a square mesh. The satin bands are woven in.

Lifting the ruching, you can see the crown fabric sewn to the net of the brim with running and whip stitches.

Here you see the shattered willow (alternative to buckram) that was used to construct the crown and tip of the bonnet.

This arrangement incorporates a number of elements, some of them rather unusual. There are 3 large flowers-a pink rose, a red rose and a pink multi-petal flower with long stamens, all handmade. The ivy leaves are unusual in their appearance. They seem to have been screen painted to shape. The smaller ones had additional red tinting added to the margins. 2 long wispy feathers have been dyed green and trimmed to resemble leaves. There are small olive green pods, possibly of wax, 1/4 inch fringe, 1/32 inch strips of fabric resembling grass. Behind the flowers are a few loops of orchid silk ribbon. You may see a few more elements as you look at the detailed photos.

Lace is stitched on in a triple layer on the sides of the bonnet and a single layer runs behind the flowers.

The fabric has been hand dyed. The stamens are a soft twisted cotton dipped in black paint.

Again, hand dyed cotton of a different type, perhaps sateen, covering a cotton wool center.

The buds are surrounded by green painted cotton calyxes.

You can also see the "pods," the feather leaves and the mossy fringe.